Fashion

Couture Fashion Week this January brought its share of lavish clothing. From breath-taking gowns to exquisite street wear with architectural silhouettes, the runways were full of dreamlike and dramatic clothing. Haute couture houses elevate fashion to a whole new level and few ateliers bear this esteemed title. Welcome to the exclusive world of couture.

History of Haute Couture

The first couture house in Paris was established by Englishman Charles Frederick Worth in 1858. Worth transformed the fashion industry when he elevated the concept of a simple dressmaker by coining the term ‘fashion designer’ as an artist of luxury women’s fashion.

In 1868 requirements were put in place for designers to have to earn the right to label themselves a couture house. These specifications were fully outlined in 1945 as follows:

• Designs must be made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings
• Each atelier must have at least 20 members of staff
• Each season, the couture house must present a collection of at least 35 runs with both daytime and evening wear to the Paris press.

After WWII the couture industry was revived by Dior’s ‘New Look’ collection which featured tight waists, stiff petticoats, and billowing skirts. The collection is the definition of iconic because it essentially ushered in the look that defined the next decade.

In 1966 Yves Saint Laurent launched the first freestanding store in Paris. Soon, other designers followed.

Today, there is a long list of designers who show at couture fashion week twice a year in Paris. These designers range from long-time couture houses like Chanel to newcomers like Serkan Cura.

What Makes Haute Couture So Expensive?

Budget is not relevant for priceless couture garments because there is no limit to the time, money, and skill that goes into each piece. Haute couture clothing is tailor-made for the specific client according to the wearer’s measurements and body type. As such, couture items require up to 150 measurements, multiple fittings, and take thousands of hours to create. It is not uncommon for it to take up to 6 months to get each look from sketchbook to runway. Understanding the high level of specialized craftsmanship that goes into each piece helps to paint a picture of the true value of couture.

Couture clothing and accessories are made by as many as eight artisans per piece. These highly skilled workers make everything from feathers to buttons by hand. Many artisans work for small workshops called fournisseurs, luxury suppliers, many of which are now owned by Chanel.

See the process of how a Dior dress is made in the video below.

Who Owns Couture Clothing?

With a starting price of $30,000, there are fewer than 500 customers worldwide who typically buy and own haute couture clothing. Within the exclusive world of couture, Mouna Ayoub has the largest collection in the world including 1,600 pieces. Her most expensive gown costs over $450,000.

Why Is Couture Important To Fashion?

With a low number of sales and exorbitantly expensive designs and shows, the couture industry operates at a loss. The importance of couture and its profitability, however, lies outside of immediate sales. Fashion designer, Sharon Sever, says couture is, “what makes us dream. It’s the same reason people go to the movies. We’re in the dream industry.” This idea of selling a dream is what makes customers who are unable to afford the highest levels of couture buy the items they can afford, like perfume, cosmetics, and accessories. The elite level of design in couture fashion also gives the entire industry and its customers something to aspire to. Haute couture keeps fashion moving forward by inspiring new levels of innovation and creativity that.